Do you snowbike? Rise your bars - night and day difference for handling and comfort! Higher bars help you get your weight further back, and put you in a reactive stance for aggressive riding in varying terrain.
We wanted some killer, full billet options for our bikes, so that's exactly what we designed.
- Sturdy and lightweight - better than spacers
- Maintain the flex/rigid balance of your stock mounts
- 0.2" horizontal offset allows flexibility with ergonomics and reach distance
- Tall option is one of the tallest risers on the market
- Includes custom tool for installation
>> The C3 billet one-piece top clamp is a great add too and is available on its own here - adds strength and rigidity, plus flexible gauge and light mounting options
>> Compatible with 1 1/8" "fatbar" handlebars - this means stock bars might not work with some bikes, including many Honda and Kawasaki.
>> NOT compatible with 2013 or earlier Yamahas, sorry
>> Looking for install instructions? Check here! bit.ly/C3PowersportsBarRisersInstallInstructions
How tall are they?
Note that the "How much taller" measurements given depend on the bike. For example, Yamaha's OEM bar clamps are lower than KTM, so if you're on a Yamaha you can add ¼" to ½" to those numbers.
Some Yamaha riders (for example Cody Matechuk!) that prefer low bars like getting the Lo risers just to give a little bit more room for the CenterFlow handlebars.
What size should I get?
We run Talls, and the feedback from most other riders using them has been great. We find that the best bar height is not solely dictated by rider height but mostly by seating position. In motocross, an intense standing + crouched attack position necessitates short risers, but in backcountry snowbiking the posture is much more about reading and reacting to the terrain. Taller risers also help transfer force more into your upper arms and shoulders, which are much stronger muscle groups than elbows or forearms.
Ultimately, it 100% boils down to rider preference, so I can only say so much here. Try to imagine if your bars were 2" higher. The main people who we have seen occasionally regret going with Tall are lifelong motocross riders who want to stick to more like what they're used to, which is fair! So, here's my final recommendation, hope it helps!
TALL - Snowbiking - Average or taller riders who love snowbikes enough to forget what dirt riding is like!
MID -Snowbiking - Riders with a strong motocross paradigm who want to stay a bit more familiar to what they know. Or, shorter than average riders.
Dirt riding - Average or taller riders looking for a more relaxed seating position
LO - Dirt riding - any height people who are wanting to run C3 Handguards with 1 1/8" bars like C3 CenterFlow Heated Bars
Do I need to get longer cables to run Talls?
No, we've never heard of anyone needing longer cables. In some cases the routing of the wires and cables does need to be optimized a bit, like on some bikes the throttle cables will be happier to end up on the rider side of the bars instead of going in front.
Should I get "rubber kills"?
Based on our experience, "rubber kills" are basically necessary for Mid and Tall risers on KTM / Husky bikes, and for Tall risers on the other brands - otherwise there may be a noticeable amount play at the triple clamp connection. Other Pros of this include a more direct steering feel with precise feedback, plus less troubles with the bar mounts twisting if you knock something. The obvious "con" is more vibration feedback into the bars, especially with big-bore engines.
Another video install of the Bar Risers, Handlebars, Top Clamp, and "Rubber Kill" - thanks Mack!
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