Please read this whole page including the FAQs section before purchasing.NOTE: ECU owners, please do NOT throw away the box the ECU came in or the papers (map settings sheet, installation instructions, troubleshooting guide). These are important items to keep on hand, also there is serial number information that must not get lost.
In our quest for the best, we identified an opportunity to partner our passion to deliver the ultimate snowbike experience with the dyno and engine management expertise of PLX Sport in Quebec to create a superior truly snowbike-specific ECU!
The biggest key that makes this the no-brainer best choice for YOUR bike is that every map is tuned and optimized for a C3 INTAKE (AIR is a pretty big factor in that whole air-fuel thing! We've done it right) - along of course with the weight of the track compared to a rear wheel and subzero temperatures and high & changing altitudes.
This gives a ton of very noticeable benefits for power and reliability:
- HORSEPOWER - Final dyno tests are ongoing and we'll post the actual results here for you when we're done - no BS! Early tests indicate multi-horsepower gains across the whole curve when the tuning is optimized for C3 intake's air delivery characteristics.
- Balance air-fuel ratios at all temperatures and altitudes - no more overfuelling, improved efficiency, reliability, and performance
- Constant re-calibrating of the curve profiles based on elevation (barometric pressure sensor)
The Vortex X10 boxes ship with 10 sets of mapping installed. >>> YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE X10 CLICKER ON THE ECU SET TO THE APPROPRIATE MAP FOR YOUR SETUP! <<< It can vary by model but typically we give you:
- Overall aggressive map, dirt or snow
- Traction optimized map (summer enduro)
- 5-7 custom developed snowbike specific maps, tuned for snowbike conditions and C3 intake, for various combinations of aftermarket mods and fuel types
- A close replication of base stock mapping
MOUNTAIN MAPS NOW AVAILABLE FOR SOME MODELS! What's the difference between the new C3 MOUNTAIN MAP and C3-PLX Snowbike maps? - When we collaborated with PLX to make a snowbike map, we used the "traditional" method: years of snowbike engine tuning knowledge plus trial and error (and lots of dyno runs) - but just tried to do it better than everyone else (and had great results in our humble opinion 🙂). For the MOUNTAIN MAP, we spent 2 seasons developing and refining a revolutionary system that combines high-tech quantifiable multi-input real-time datalogging and optimization algorithms, with an actual snowbike, in actual deep & varying snow conditions, at actual winter temperatures and mountain elevations, with the actual engine loads of an aggressive riding style. Every throttle position and RPM is optimized, not just the dyno curve. Of course, with on-hill development, the seat-of-the-pants results are more apparent than ever, and we are definitely stoked with the resulting maps, and we know you will be too! More details releasing via our social media throughout winter 2022.
- Note, Some bikes we haven't had a chance to develop maps yet, but we decided to still offer them in the meantime with the standard Vortex map. We know it is still definitely an upgrade over stock
- Note, Engine-control mapping is very sensitive and bike-specific, so if your model is not listed here, we don't have it available, sorry. IE: don't try and use an ECU mapped for 2017 Honda on a 2016 bike.
- Fitment comment: as always, "Factory Edition" or "Rockstar Edition" models are one year ahead. Always use the parts for one year newer than the model year of your bike. Example, for 2022 KTM 450 SX-F Factory Edition, use the 2023 parts.
- Do NOT use any aftermarket ECU with any aftermarket stator (ex: it has been confirmed that the Trail Tech stator is 100% incompatible with aftermarket ECUs on many bike models)
Expect more info soon including full Dyno reports with engine performance mod recommendations and the whole shebang!
Sometimes called ECU / ECM / EFI map box / tuner
How does the ECU work with the stock KTM handlebar map switch?
As described in the Vortex instructions in the box - With Map 1 selected on the handlebar switch, the Vortex ECU uses its Map 1 (in most applications this is the "Aggressive Overall Power" map from Vortex - ie: it's a great MX map but it's not the C3-developed snowbike-optimized map).
With Map 2 selected on the handlebar switch, the Vortex ECU uses whichever map is selected on the X10 dial on the ECU. Example: as per the map sheet included in the box, on some bike models the snowbike-specific C3 MOUNTAIN MAP is Map 7. Set the X10 clicker to 7, and then when Map 2 is selected on the handlebar switch, the Vortex Map 7 is used.
What do the Hi, Mid, Lo dials do?
As per the Vortex instructions in the box, you can fine-tune (trim) the fuel tables across the THROTTLE OPENING range (NOT the RPM ranges). Think of them like a carb's Main/Needle/Pilot jets respectively.
Unless you are an experienced tuner, it is recommended to leave the Hi Mid Lo switches all at the 5 position, which is the baseline as tuned by our experts. Each number above 5 will add 2.5% fuel delivery in that range. Example: with Lo on 7, it is adding 5% fuel in the low throttle range (25% throttle or less). Example 2: with Hi on 4, it is subtracting 2.5% fuel in the open throttle range (75% throttle or more). Again, it is not advisable to play with these unless you know what you are doing and/or have a KOSO AFR gauge. Note also that the 0 position is the highest setting, like a 10 (ie adds 12.5%).
Do I have to change maps or adjust the fuel trim when I ride at a different elevation?
No. Vortex ECU reads barometric pressure wherever you ride. It's a good habit to get into to let the bike idle for a solid 3 seconds when you fire up the bike at altitude so this reading is as accurate as possible. Just go out and ride and it will calibrate automatically at any altitude.
Does temperature affect the mapping while riding?
Yes, the Vortex ECU automatically calibrates fuel according to the outside temperature. Note: engine makes the most power when coolant is between 75 and 95°c. A thermostat (C3 recommended!) is mandatory for these ECUs.
What fuels can I run?
The C3-PLX ECU ships with maps for most popular fuels used in the market (pump (91), race fuel, Aviation gas, and Oxygenated race gas). The Trim dials can be used for fine-tune adjustments.
Does your ECU for the KTM work for my Husqvarna of the same year and model?
Yes, the tunes are the compatible for the same year and "model". In case you need the refresher: EXC ~ FE. XCF ~ FX. SXF ~ FC.
How about my Factory Edition?
As you may know, a 2015 Factory Edition KTM is the same as a 2016. A 2018 Factory Edition would use the 2019 option. All other years are business as usual.
Will the ECU work with my aftermarket stator?
NO. We have seen many cases where aftermarket ECUs are incompatible with aftermarket stators.
Do you have an ECU for my ______?
If it is listed in the options above, then yes! If it is not listed, then no, sorry. If you can join us in Salmon Arm BC we can build you the ultimate custom map!
MODIFIED ENGINES AND AFTERMARKET COMPONENTS: WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT HIGHLY MODIFIED ENGINES (PORTED CYLINDER HEAD, OVERSIZE VALVES, HI COMPRESSION PISTON, ETC.) NEED A SPECIAL CALIBRATION BY A VORTEX AUTHORISED TUNER. IF YOU DON’T HAVE ACCESS TO A VORTEX TUNER IN YOUR AREA, WE RECOMMEND USING AN AFR METER TO VERIFY AND FINE TUNE YOUR MAPPING. WE CONSTANTLY TESTING PRODUCTS AND SETUP SO WE MAY BE ABLE TO HELP YOU OUT WITH SOME MAPS WE’VE MADE FOR CUSTOMERS OVERS THE YEARS. WE HAVE NOT TESTED ALL INTAKE AND ALL EXHAUST ON THE MARKET EITHER, SO IF YOU FEEL YOUR BIKE IS NOT RUNNING WELL FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US SO WE CAN ASSIST YOU.
COLD START INFO: Vortex ECU’s are more sensitive to TPS, Voltage, and MAP Sensor than stock ECU. Cold start issues are probably from Map Sensor. Tips:
-Using the fast idle is not a good idea for the first start, it increases the RPM by 2000 but also sends more air, which blocks the map sensor, which results in a bad start. The trick is to start without touching the fast idle, and when the engine runs, then you can use it for the first minute or two before starting to ride.
-Low voltage/low rpm. The key is really to use a booster pack on the very first start. We’ve made tests and to get a good signal for start, it needs 450 rpm. Below 450 rpm signal is weak. So if a bike starts cold, with lower battery voltage and thicker oil, sometimes it does not reach 450 rpm, which results in a bad cold start.
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